Leading up to the climatic return to Siem Reap, my body began to quiver with excitement -- numb in all the senses but my fingers beg to caress the walls of Angkor once again. But this fourth visit in eight months came on the auspicious occasion of the Khmer New Year -- The Year of the Dog.

Our driver was a middle-aged local man, who wears two disguises: a government military staff by day but for the four day pilgrimage, he's our friendly neighborhood tour guide.

Three hours into our pitiful, barely blowing air conditioning ride, our stomach growled in unison cueing our first major pit stop.

Some hole-in-the-wall restaurant in Kompong Thom province satisfied our four stomachs; and off we resume our trip northward.

Tony "Re-al" Roun is a Khmerican artist from Lowell, Massachusetts, and one-third of the hip-hop pop trio, SEASIA. He's in Phnom Penh for a few months to work on his solo album slated for a 2007 release.

At around early 4 p.m. under the no mercy April sun, we arrived at our destination.

The Butterfly Garden Bar is situated east of the Siem Reap River near the Old Market (Phsar Chas). According to the Lonely Planet: Cambodia, the tropical garden here is home to hundreds of live butterflies flitting about under a huge net. It's a quiet spot in which to pass the time when it's hot, and the small menu includes drinks and international dishes.

After Tony and I unpacked our luggage to the guest bedroom, we unwind on the comfortable sofas and fans. The lady charmer, Tony, introduced himself to the three young staffs, while two visiting tourists caught my attention.

Steffen and Emilia are two young adventurists from Sweden. They have been traveling much of SE Asia prior to arriving in Cambodia before they continue their journey into Vietnam and Laos. I happily shared my knowledge about Cambodia and Siem Reap's many must-see spots. After the thirty minute conversation, I comfortably gave my Phnom Penh Post business cards and encouraged they call if they want the "real Angkor experience."

Evening time came around and so was our appetite. We decided to take a casual stroll to Bar Street -- a long strip dotted with fancy restaurants and bars. With so many attractive places to choose from, the selection became an unexpected dilemma. Eventually, the Temple Bar's decorative façade lured us three in.

Tony is quite possibly the biggest Khmer food connoisseur I know. For the three dinners we shared together, we gave him full responsibility in ordering. He would customized every little dish and dip drenching sauces, and even went as far as "inventing" a dessert that was not in the restaurant menu! But after four mouth watering dishes washed with fine Italian red wine, we weren't complaining; he does have good taste (no pun intended).

Day one wrapped up after the long satisfying meal at 11 p.m.

Day II teaser ... the ride of our lives